The Last Two Weeks

My last two weeks here easily the busiest with a flurry of activities I wanted to complete.

Saturday 11 June saw a record number of students graduate from Bunda Bible College. This is the largest cohort in the history of any college in the Anglican Church of Tanzania. Apart from the local bishop of Mara, three other Bishops being Musa Yamo from Rorya and former college principal with whom I worked closely from his appointment in 2016, Godfrey Mbelwa from Lweru on the other side of the lake whom I have worked with previously on various projects and Stanley Hotay from Mt Kilimanjaro who I met for the first time also made the journey.

It was a festive occasion, held outdoors under rented canopies and trees as guests spread out under shade from the equatorial sun. As the guest, I was asked to speak and prepared a speech/sermon (it turns out there was a church service) focusing on the role of the pastor. Students were suitably adorned in graduation gowns and I was provided with a cap and gown trying to make me look important.

The diocese employed, on my urging, a young 28 year old guy who has been looking after the website as a volunteer. He had been an intern at a business in town for eighteen months (without pay) and when I met him he got the website up and running within an hour after being off line, unknown to many. Mwita is a nice guy who will feature in a later blog. Suffice to say of his family he is the only one to get to university. Apart from the website, I’ve had him producing a newsletter and looking at setting up an email system so all staff working with international partners use a common corporate email address. A lot of the last two weeks has been spent with him, editing material, teaching him the importance of getting things right, checking and double checking and setting up a database for the emails to be sent and learning Mailchimp (which he did amirably).

In the end one of my jobs was going through the bishop’s emails back to late 2020, adding to his contacts people he knew from overseas (he lived in USA for three years studying for his doctorate) and in addition adding other contacts and we ended up with 200 names. Tedious.

Yona Masinde is the Director of Christian Education and he grabbed me one morning to discuss training for pastors lacking formal education beyond the initial 3-6 months training they may have done many years ago. He had in mind a course from Moore College in Sydney and I put him in contact with the External Studies Department.

A visit to Nufaba Island took place on the Friday of my penultimate weekend. This was both a tourist adventure, but Max the diocesan secretary was born on this island in the 1950s and had arranged with a visiting Englishman to run a mission here to establish an Anglican church on the island.

Lake Victoria is huge, about four times the size of Tasmania and dotted with innumerable islands, some just uninhabited specks. Those that are inhabited are few and generally provide a base for nomadic fishermen who base themselves on an island for periods during fishing seasons, which are reducing due to the overfishing that occurs and undersized fish being captured. The lake is home to tilapia, Nile Perch and dagaar, a small sardine type which is not well loved but provides essential protein for the poor. You’ll see them in droves in any market in Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania, bordering Lake Victoria.

Getting there was the adventure. Loaded up with foam mattresses in the rear cabin of the 4WD, we set off from Musoma at 8am. Max, his wife and the Education Officer were in the rear huddled amongst the mattresses, seedlings and other assorted stuff being transported. We stopped an hour down the road at Bunda to collect a wooden bed frame which was carefully added to the top along with other furniture already tied up when we left Musoma. A chicken joined us for the trip. I wasn’t sure if it was lunch but I have travelled with many chickens during my stay. They are fairly unobtrusive passengers.

We dropped the Education Officer at Bunda Girls School for the day expecting she would make her own way back by bus. Chai was taken at the school and then we made our way west on Ukerewe Rd which soon became dirt. The road is being tarred in various places so for twenty kilometres we drove on unsealed roads on the side, impassable. Nafuba has no roads, electricity or water. People living there make the journey to the mainland to buy foodstuffs which is really their only contact with the outside world. It is a subsistenance lifestyle, reliant on cassava, some maize and of course fish. There are two villages. Max’s village is 9km from the village on the other side of the island, which has the school attended by kids from his village.

Max introduced me to six of his seven siblings, one being disabled and bedridden after being left for dead twenty years prior following a drunken fight and subsequently a stroke. He epitomized the significant disadvantages disability overlaid on poverty for those unfortunate to have a disability in undeveloped nations. A long day and 9pm before we got back to Musoma.

After lunch, prepared for all visitors including the boat crew, we made a departure back for the mainland and home. We arrived back shortly before 9pm. A long but interesting day seeing the challenges a church has in establishing churches in very remote areas.

Two further strategic planning workshops occurred in my last few weeks, one each in Musoma and Bunda, with English speaking staff who were generally leaders of schools and other institutions. This was outlining what a SP is, the need for it and gathering data for it via a SWOT analysis. I will have the task of finalising this before I leave in October to allow the executive to finalise a long term plan. Both groups went well and were illuminating for staff who had little knowledge of what a SP is or ever been invited for input. The bishop was clear he wanted it built from the bottom up.

Probably the highlight of my time here has been the return of Helen, a long term missionary in Tanzania for over thirty years, who went home in early 2020 (before COVID) was diagnosed in Australia with pancreatic cancer and had surgery and remarkably no chemo. Greatly loved by all in Mara she arrived on Sunday 19 June to a formal reception and speeches in Musoma and met the following day with the bishop. I drove down with her to Bunda where apart from the SP workshop on Tuesday, we spent Wednesay visiting schools to finalise building plans funded by a foundation I am secretary to and meeting the builder to go through plans.

Helen was met at Bunda by the Girls Brigade Sewing Centre she established and our car took 11 minutes to drive the 500 metres from the main road to her home as the girls walked in front, singing, ululating and waving palm branches and laying them on the road in front as I drove down (similarities to Palm Sunday are allowed at this point).

My last week effectively had me in the office only one day as I spent Mon-Wed in Bunda with Helen as we had various matters to discuss around the schools, running the workshop and meeting the builder. Thursday was scrambling to get everything completed including the newsletter which was eventually dispatched Friday morning as Mwita struggled with getting Mailchimp addressee perfect (at my insistence). The mailing list ended at 200 and initial results showed better than 40% opening and two emails from people who had not had contact from the bishop for some years. So a good finish to my time here.

Friday I had been invited to go with the bishop to what I thought was an opening of a regional Mothers’ Union Conference in Tarime. 360 women from Lake Victoria region gathered, sang and were meeting for three days. Nothing is short here and after all formalities were done the bishop of Tarime, Rt Rev Mwita Akiri called me up front for what I thought was the standard meet and greet and answer a few questions. I was not aware that I was was about to have the greatest compliments spoken about me ever, culminating in him making me a lay canon of his cathedral, followed by Musa Yama, bishop pf Rorya doing the same. Great honour for me for the work I did when I was employed at Anglican Aid. Mwita’s words however were very humbling.

So my initial time here is up. My visa allows me ninety days at a time. I had initailly planned to leave early June, but the war in Ukraine meant the holiday we had planned was scuppered as the ship we were to cruise on is now housing 1500 Ukrainians. We had literally three days prior to me leaving to reschedule our trip and as I conclude this from Klaipeda in Lithuania there are no regrets about the changes. The Dutch government committed to house 50,000 Ukrainians and the Dutch waterways are an ideal home with so many waterways. A few ships housing Ukrainians from where they can go to school, work etc is a novel way of providing humanitarian aid.

My last Sunday saw me preach at the English service, duck off for my COVID test at the hospital next door and then travel to Mwanza four hours away to catch the early morning flight to Dar Es Salaam for my flight to Amsterdam. As I was leaving that plane, I got a notice from KLM that my flight on 27 June had been delayed and they had rebooked me to fly on 30 June! Mild panic as I made my way to the terminal, knowing KLM were unlikely to have staff here. In the end to cut a long story short I flew Emirates direct to London and will let insurance sort out the rest.

Back in Tanzania mid August.

New Beginnings

Reflections on my first week in Tanzania as a volunteer at the Anglican Church of Tanzania

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Induction at Mara Easter Week 1

Its has been a busy week here in Musoma. Arriving by local bus from Mwanza (4.5 hours) I learned a lot from just a bus ride. I gave up my seat to a woman with two kids she was standing trying to hold as the bus weaved along the main road avoiding hazards. Lots of young blokes who didn’t even look up. This is a strongly dominated male culture.
Bishop George met me at the bus station and took me home. I am living with him while in Musoma. His wife Janet who teaches in Dodoma came home early for Easter to greet me and head back to Dodoma (20 hours on a bus) on Easter Monday. Christina is the housekeeper who cooks, cleans and does all things domestic. There is a 24 hour security guard at the gate and at night the guards are armed.

I had the house to myself on Saturday and Sunday as they went to a village for confirmations and it was too far to travel back Saturday night. I went for a walk up town and cvisited the markets and bought one or two items. A plate to sit on top of the gas stove will allow my stove top espresso maker to keep me in decent coffee.

The heat has surprised me and I did sleep a lot on the weekend. Not sure if it was the heat or effects of jetlag. The weekend also brought news from my wife that she had tested positive for COVID on a PCR after two negative RATS. While concerning she was assuring me she had only mild symptoms. How I have not contacted it as my daughter and two grandkids contracted it in the days prior to my departure and I had significant contact with them the previous weekend at my grandson’s birthday party.

I downloaded Duolingo, hoping to learn some basic Swahili given I am here for more than just a week as have my past visits been. I gave up by Monday, but Glen a former missionary here who is back for ten days to say goodbye after the hasty Covid departure said he would see if there were any books they had when they were learning Swahili.

The first day in the office surpised. I have an office and a title – Business Manager – somewhat embarrassing and I did ask who made way for me to have sucha big office. Katibu (Diocesan Secretary Max) told me it was a meeting room and as I was a “big man” I deserved a big office. By week’s end it was all making sense. The photo of the office says all you need to know about the state of administration not only here but generally in Africa. A meeting with the bishop outlined the tasks he had in mind for me to work on in my time here. The list seemed intimidating initially but as the week went on it was clear I am seen by him as a change agent.

My induction proceeded with introductions to all staff working in the diocesan office here.. There are many departments and significantly a number of younger staff. The diocesan office now has a legal adviser, given litigation is becoming an issue and also to deal with land issues and contracts.

I spent most of Tuesday in Mother’s Union Board meeting. Significantly from that I learned that MU had done training in 2018 on a Church & Community Mobilisation Program (CCMP) and two groups have already saved TZS 30 million (Tanzanian Shillings) or about $18,000 which was used to finance small projects on a loan basis to community members. This is significant and the bishop is keen to have this roll out across the diocese. Reading through the financial statements I was also questioning how accounts are presented and individual cost centres not showing as P&L centres. This is an area to address with finance who was at the meeting. Over the Easter weekend (Thursday, Friday, Saturday) Janet and a number of MU members visited remote villages with gifts of food and school supplies for distribution to needy children and their parents.

Wednesday was sermon preparation day. But first I had to sort out my online access to the bank as I had been locked out due to too many attempts at my passowrd. I ended up having to go to town and but an international bundle for the phone and ringing my bank. Amazingly it only took 10 minutes but the bundle did cost $30 and was needed as I didn’t have SMS for my Australian number to receive a code to verify it was me making the changes.

The Bible readings for Sunday were Psalm 118:14-24, Isaiah 25:6-9, 1 Cor 5:7-8 and Mark 16:1-7. By day’s end I had the outline completed and an idea of what I was going to say.

Maundy Thursday was a meeting with Arthur who has three jobs in the diocese. It went for three hours and it seems he and I will work together trying to help manage his workload and put in systems that will help him. I manged the completion of my sermon and used Google translate to translate it into Swahili. The bishop was impressed at the accuracy of the translated sermon. The subject is The Shroud has Been Lifted. I also wrote a blog on the absence of Easter Bunnies and eggs in Tanzania. It struck me that there is no commercial advertising of Easter. The blog can be located at the link above. At 3pm a service was held in the cathedral with lots of music. I took a video of a song sung by the bishop’s secretary. It is absoultely amazing when you think these singers have no formal music training.

Good Friday was church at 10am (English) and at midday a service of the last seven sayings of Jesus which lasted three hours. First time I have ever heard of this type of service but lo and behold Darling Point Anglican in Sydney had the exact same service but with nine last sayings. Church is very liturgical and this would have been a high holy day. Again excellent music. In this context the liturgy is remembered as I observed even young children reciting responses. No prayer books in sight. I downloaded a Swahili song book earlier in the week and was able to attempt to sing some of the songs in Swahili.

Glenn and Dominique who were missionaries here for ten years are back to say goodbye and sort out their goods before going home. A short trip of ten days, they took the bishop and I for dinner to a local restaurant which allowed a time of saying goodbye. The school Glenn led had a farewell for him earlier in the week and formal farewell from the diocese will take place on Tuesday before they head home.

My diet here is totally changed. I have been doing keto for over three years and the diet here is totally the opposite. High carbs, high protein and low fat. Fat in fact is only in the oil used for cooking and any fish or meat. In the week here I have eaten an extraordinary amount of beans and am surprised at how tasty they are.

Christina the housekeeper here knows how to cook. Rice is an accompaniment with most meals and either a small amount of meat, generally chicken but once we had beef. Spinach as greens and plantains (cooked bananas) are regular side dishes and maybe 100 -150grams of meat on any day. On the days eating out I order tilapia, a freshwater fish from Lake Victoria – arguably the tastiest fish in the world. The house is literally a 200 metre walk to the largest lake in Africa.

Perhaps the biggest change is walking the dogs or should I say the dogs running us. It is a brisk 2.5 km circuit as the dogs pull us along. I haven’t exercised as hard in many years. My heart rate is getting to 160 according to my Fitbit. My thighs are feeling it. On Saturday the dogs get a wash that essentially dips them in public dog bath and has chemicals for parasites, ticks and allows them to be scrubbed down. This happened before sunrise so they get the first bath. 80 to 100 dogs go through the same water on Saturdays for 500 TZS each.

So it has been busy, tiring but a great start. I am lookning forward to the next few months.