The Last Day, African Drums and Dinner

People ask me would I climb Kilimanjaro a second time and the answer is a definite no. Would I do this again. Definitely.

This trip started out as a hope that enough people attending a conference in Kigali would be sufficiently motivated to add on a week to visit the real Africa. In the end 18 intrepid travellers signed up. While it was a tough week travel wise with late arrivals in Nairobi after a week of conferencing and an early morning start from Nairobi on that first morning, most people seemed to have survived (is that the right word) a busy schedule.

So the last morning needed some discipline to have everyone on the bus ready to leave by 7am. And the tour group was ready, the driver was on but where was the bus owner? He had been a bit too leisurely as I hunted him down and eventually we were on the road by 7.07am. Some needed a “short stop” as the Tanzanians called it so about an hour from Mwanza we stopped at a petrol station I had stopped at a a bus trip which had facilities.

Our “short stop” stop. Buses operate as freight carriers as well as passengers

Eventually the outskirts of Mwanza, Tanzania’s second biggest city emerged in heavy traffic and street side markets as we made our way to Mwanza International Airport to drop off Kim, Jim and Lim as they identified themselves from university days for their flight to Bukoba. Lucy Lim is Executive Director of Anglican Relief and Development Australia and cut her teeth at Anglican Aid for five years prior to being appointed as the first full time director of this fledgling Anglican development agency, which I had worked with since 2013. The two agencies complement each other and are not in competition serving different Anglican communities in Australia. The Roberts family were also dropped for their flight as they extended their stay on the island of Zanzibar. Final group photos and farewells.

Farewells to six of our fellow travellers while the rest of us head off to Nyakato Bible College. Bishop Ntuza (left 2nd fromend) met us to direct us to the college

Our final official visit was to Nyakato Bible School which we had heard about the previous evening from Helen Hoskins who had taught there forty years previously. As we made our way to the city outskirts it was not difficult to imagine how isolated Nyakato would have been forty years ago before the advent of sealed roads, motor vehicles, electricity and other infrastructure. Now a bustling city, Nyakato could be described as being a village back then. However here was this reasonably well preserved relic surrounded by suburbia and traffic with a welcome party to greet us singing of course. The access road could not be navigated by the bus which stayed on the road as we walked up the track to the college chapel and grounds. Speaking to Helen Hoskins two weeks later she commented on how well preserved building constructed in the 1980s were, an observation not missed by me.

Nyakato view

Again warm hospitality, choirs, an introduction about Victoria Nyanza Diocese and lunch. We each were presented with a college T-shirt and were able to provide gifts to senior staff of the diocese. Craig Roberts and Dominic Steele spent time over lunch explaining how QR Codes work as Anglican Youthworks donated free resources able to be downloaded on WhatsApp. As the college has n internet this will be a challenge.

Three others due to fly out that evening came back to the hotel with us to wait while others booked in and relaxed by the pool. Jodie McNeill had been chasing an African drum and Misoji at the diocese rang to let me know she had found a drum maker in Mwanza. She was asked to send him down and we would reimburse his boda boda fare even if the drum was not purchased. Thirty minutes later the African version of Uber Drums rolls up with a pair of drums of different sizes. Sold. Both of them. Another person enquired and he said he could get more. This time he came prepared wit a larger number but sadly only one further sale made. Getting through cistoms was no problem (this is writtentwo weeks after the entourage returned). Declared and waved through. Mandy as a music teacher was most excited and the sales guy hand makes these himself.

Dinner that night was a casual affair. The Malaika Hotel sits over Lake Victoria with spectacualr views. Bishop Ntuza and Bishop Johnson Chinyong’ole from Shinyanga (three hours distance) joined us as Archbishop Kanishka Raffel was also staying the night.

For the Other Cheek’s Take on the final day and a summary of the trip read Taking leave of Africa but will Africa really leave me?

2024 beckons as I ponder doing it all again. An evaluation survey will inform the positives and negatives and where improvements can be made. It was great organising this and great to see the excitement of locals who valued people coming to visit and learn. For some locals old friendships of twenty plus years were renewed as Doroth and Fional serendipitously met people they had known from Dodoma when they lived there as missionaries.

People ask me would I climb Kilimanjaro a second time and the answer is a definite no. Would I do this again. Definitely.

The Long Trek to History in Kigali

The long road trip from Musoma to Kigali with Alpha Lugoley.
Most Africans live in rural towns and villages. In Tanzania 37% of the population live in urban areas according to the 2021 statistics. This is up from 5% in 1960, and 30% in 2013, so you can see that urbanisation has a long way to go, compared to Australia which had an urban population of 81% in 1960 and 85% ten years ago.

This will be the first of a number of consecutive posts following my two weeks away from Musoma from 13 April when I left for Kigali. I finished my last post referencing a tour I had arranged for eighteen Australians attending the GAFCON Conference in Kigali who had added on a trip to experience and view the church in Africa. If you went to Kigali and thought you had been to Africa you would be seriously mistaken.

Most Africans live in rural towns and villages. In Tanzania 37% of the population live in urban areas according to the 2021 statistics. This is up from 5% in 1960, and 30% in 2013, so you can see that urbanisation has a long way to go, compared to Australia which had an urban population of 81% in 1960 and 85% ten years ago. Gross Domestic Product per capita in 2021 was US$822 for Rwanda and $1100 for Tanzania.

6 minutes

Kigali however exuded sophistication and prosperity unknown to me except in South African cities like Capetown and Johannesburg. As one US delegate at the conference commented he could have been in a resort in Florida, given the luxury at the Radisson where I stayed. Other delagates at the six other hotels would have experienced similar grandeur. However Rwanda has just 18% of its population in urban areas so compared to Tanzania it remains almost rural in all areas. Kigali does not represent how most Rwandans live. It is however more developed, its service industries have staff whose English is excellent and who appear to have had excellent training. The streets are wide and grand, there is no rubbish and more than one attendee compared it to Singapore. But if you go to Kigali, venture outside 10kms and see the real Rwanda.

“Focus on the journey, not on arriving at a certain destination,” is a quote by Canadian astronaut Chris Hadfield as he was presumably as he was hurtling through space enroute to the International Space Station. The journey to Kigali started on Thursday when I left Musoma by Bajaji for the 8km ride to the bus station where I boarded the bus to Mwanza for an overnight stay. At Bunda I was joined by Alpha Lugoley, principal of the Bible College. Our stay in Mwanza was at the Anglican Guesthouse, basic but cheap at $AU12 a night with no hot water but a bed and a TV with one station and a fan.

The bus ride to Mwanza was uneventful. At $6 it is expensive for locals but there is no tax for visitors. The guesthouse provided the perfect stopping point and a meal was had at a local restaurant which is rented out by the Anglican Church whch has a number of commercial premises attached to its compound.

After dinner a stroll around Mwanza. Our accommodation is two minutes from Lake Victoria. We managed a sunset and a visit to St Nicholas Church which is the cathedral. The Diocese of Victoria Nyanza (DVN) was established in 1960 as the second Anglican Diocese in Tanzania when it was still part of the church of East Africa comprising Kenya and Tanganyika as it was then called.

Bishop Zephaniah Ntuza kindly loaned us a car and driver for the next leg of our journey to the Rwandan border with only petrol to reimburse him. Very generous.. A 5am start was necessary for what was to be a long day driving of fifteen hours with a border crossing included.

First stop was a ferry crossing at Busisi where we passed a new bridge being constructed. When completed in 2024 this bridge of over 3kms in length will allow all transport year round access to international destinations in Burundi, Rwanda and Uganda. Pictures tell a lot of the story of our journey to Rusumo Falls Border.

Enroute we passed the newest diocese formed in 2017 of Biharamulo so we stopped in for a toilet stop and to gree the bishop if he was in. It turned out there was a meeting in progress and a number of visitors from other parts of Tanzania were in attendance but the bishop did greet us.

After seven hours of driving including breakfast at a dodgy cafe (I had mild food poisoning in Kigali) we arrived at Rusumo Falls border in the rain.

The border crossing was fairly straightforward. One building that did everything. First to the Tanzanian desk to exit and have my passport stamped and then to Rwanda which now being a Commonwealth country allows free entry visas to citizens of the Commonwealth.

However I was not ready for what was to come.

rom Mwanza to Rusumo was 375kms and the seven hour drive was not surprising. However the passenger bus was we were told a few hours. Even Google maps hasn’t figured out African roads don’t have consistent driving conditions. The 154kms to the convention centre took eight hours by bus! And no toilt stops!

So focussed was I on the journey that I barely took any photos. My water ran out early on the trip (Oh how fortunate was that). We seemed to stop at every village enroute to Kigali and let me say the villages are not that far apart, to allow passengers on and off the bus. The slow trip could be sped up if tickets were issued on the bus. Each passenger receives a printed electronic ticket issued from an EFTPOS size machine which indicates th start and finish of the journey and the cost. This is no doubt an anti corruption measure which I remember being promoted when I visited Rwanda in 2014.

Arriving in Kigali, we had to find a taxi to transport us to our hotels ready for the conference two days hence. All in all a long but good day. Arrrived in The Land of 1,000 hills and a millions smiles. Dinner with Alpha and bed.

bula matari, breaking rocks, exploding myths, retyrement, retirement